tibet diary
2006-09-06~ 2006-09-08（On the way to Lhasa）
At 21:30 Pm on 2006-09-06 we started the journey to <***xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />
Fortunately when we arrived in
About four or five hours later our train came into beautiful Ke Ke Xi Li, Tibet antelope and yak appeared on both side of railway occasionally which help us forgot the inconvenience from high plateau sickness. Sometime one or two jokul came into the sight of passenger, at that moment only sorry was that time is not enough for picturing.
By the way, at the time we passed through Ger Er Mu Station, I began to practice Za-zen from time to time accompanying with abdominal breath, which prove to be more effective weapon to high plateau sickness than oxygen sucking when we climbed over Tang Gu La hill of Kun Lun Mountain.
On 09-08 about 21:30 we arrived in the end of journey
When I finished my trivial issues and arrangement for tomorrow, I crawled onto comfortable Tibetan bed. But no sooner half hour than I spread my limbs, disappeared headache came back, at that moment I realized that no matter how strong you are reaction to high plateau is unavoidable at the first time. So in the next 5~6 hours, 50********* was spent by practicing Za-zen and abdominal another 50********* for watching TV.
2006-09-09(first day in
When I got up about 6:00 am this morning outside is still silent no sunlight as well as the sign of human, after one hour bored time on bed I came down to street for breakfast. Providentially I found a local teashop in vicinity very soon. After drinking 3~4 cup local ghee tea energy seems to return to my body. In nearby Sichuan restaurant I enjoyed the breakfast which is wonderful: conjee、 egg and Chinese bread , with it help and ghee tea my headache disappeared one hour later. Though rainfall started at 7:30 am, I decided to spend my first morning by paying a visit to JokhangTemple. After 40 minutes trudging by foot in the rain, I arrived at the temple. It’s honored by its history of about 1300 years old, built up by seventh Tubo king Strontsan Gampo, in the central hall on the first floor, sits the alloy casted statue of the twelve-year-old Sakyamuni which prohibited from photo. The temple is beautiful and hospitable、only sorry is no picture permitted inside. After three hours exhausted journey, I came back to my hotel. Caused by high plateau reaction and loss of sleep from the beginning of travel, I spend 2~3 hours for sleeping this afternoon accompanied with light headache sometimes. When I got up, I was almost in regret of the travel what’s meaning of it*** But after all, since I am here there is no reason for setback till stipulated date of myself. So I joined in a team for the journey of
2006-09-10
After one night Za-zen together with fighting to insomnia, I got up at 6:00 am as yesterday. After half an hour Buddhism patter going out for breakfast. I failed to know it’s the function of Za-zen or ghee tea, anyway about 7:30 my headache disappeared. It’s still three hours to the start of journey to Namtso so I decided to have a look of Ramoche temple in the nearby. The outlook of Tibetan street is peculiar, on the surface it’s little difference compared with other small city located all around china, but in the nature you can feel the barbarism and pure from the face of any beggar at the turning of street or from the whistle of a tricycle driver pass you swiftly. The only passport to the heart of local people is their religion, without full knowledge of Tibetan Buddhism and local language anyone from other province of china bears no difference from other country. When I came back from Ramoche temple vigorously, I do believe proper exercise is benefit for health on high plateau.
Our team for Namtso is composed of four guys and five girls with three couples inside. Travel is may be the best medicine for lovelorn suffering along with good calmness. Furthermore, except me most of us are of four to five days’ experience for Tibetan living. Obviously the driver of team is professional, who knows the result of high plateau clearly. From the beginning of journey , he tried his utmost giving chance for us surviving the reaction of high altitude gradually. In that we spend 7 hours on the road, several times stop for picturing and lunch. About 17:00 pm this after noon we arrived in Namtso, meanwhile I found that it’s hard to describe the charm of it, due to language was invented for the use of this world which can’t be appropriately fitted for another.
Caused by short of tents six of team lived in a big one together, leaving a couple and myself. In order to not act as bulb I choose to live in a three-bed tent solely, which was proved to be an exactly wise decision latterly.
Mountain climbing has never been such a difficult sport for me, you have to stop for breathe every 5~10 meters upward. At the moment on the top of hill which decorated by flags and so on, great joy fills in my heart gently. Enchanting beauty of Namtso roots in its silent and crucible, real happy always shake hands with equivalent suffering.
After swallowing two pieces of Plateau-safety NT, I crawled onto the bed for Za-zen practicing.
Though I didn’t take off any clothes, nippy cold still prevent you from claming down. Providentially there are three beds in my tent without occupation by others, covering the blankets from other beds cold resistance finally became an issue achievable for me.
The night was long and alone; obviously most of us in the camp were too tired to carry out further activity except sleeping, even sleeping was just some kind of conciliative words for us. Very soon, time approached 11:00 Pm, as stimulated by some signals about 20~30 dogs around the camp started to snarl at same time exactly. Due to I was in good Za-zen state at the moment the noise failed to disturb me too much. But no sooner than 1 hour later when I distinguished several long roar among the big sound clearly, I did realize the reason why all the dogs in camp were permitted to sleep freely in the day time. Wolfs were approaching the camp for yaks and sheep inside so tent outside was in the state of crazy, any small sound or movement would cause bellowing off from both sides for dear life. Occasionally I can feel the rubbing sound of some animal with thick fur passing my tent. How pleasure I am when at 5:00 am on 09-11 all the noise outside came to an end simultaneously, but it’s still 2 hours to sun rising and no one except me was willing to come out of chill tents for some activities.
After two hours bored time on bed, I can finally find some sign of human outside. Unfortunately two guy of our team in big tent caught a cold yesterday night that should belong to the effort by both plateau sickness and short of cold resistance. Calamities always pay a visit hand by hand. Just at our departure time of journey at 9:00 am, a girl failed to present herself timely and after a short time we proved her lose. Searching was difficult for us, due to it’s raining and after one night opera most were too tired to go out for a long route. In the end with the help of local people, we found that collapsed girl in the vicinity lake bank which is no more than 1 kilometer to the camp about 11:00 am this morning.
Anyway the journey was wonderful and no people being knocked down, so everyone was in good spirit when we were approaching
Maybe it is the function of free tea I got in the hospital this afternoon or it is the energy from fighting with plateau sickness and chilliness yesterday night, my reaction to high plateau became invisible from then on and I could enjoy my first good sleep in
2006-09-12
Unimaginable how strong I am, when I got up 7:00 am this morning. Puzzling plateau sickness accompanied with me for three days finally disappeared on the four day of
I enjoyed the pleasure of travel by bicycle, sunlight as well as hospitality of local people together with good feeling from recovery.
2006-09-13
That’s last day of journey, I paid a visit to Ramoche temple for the memory of
TAG:
